Only 3 days after the World Cup in Chamonix, an IFSC World Cup was held for the first time in Villars/Switzerland.
For their first world cup, it seems like they decided to copy the WC in Chamonix : it was a similar steep wall, full of cheeta cholds, the same great speaker ;) and the routes felt hard as wellWhat made this competition special was the beautiful town of Villars with all the very kind people we met and the beautiful view on the mountains we had !
Regarding the competition in itself, I had a blast climbing on the routes ! For the qualifications, one was more based on pure endurance while the other one was more bouldery. I climbed pretty high up on the first one and fell on the bouldery crux of the second one. This was enough to be qualified for semi-finals the next day ! I was psyched my buddy Nicolas Collin qualified as well and so did Anak !
Next day was semi-final day and the motivation was high ! After a proper warm-up at the warming-up area located 15minutes away by walk, all the climbers were driven to the wall by bus to read the route… and the routesetters didn’t choose the easy way ! We were proposed a pretty complicated route on volumes with some sequences where different betas could work out ! I had to climb in third position so no time for thinking about it… just getting ready to climb and let’s go ! I climbed through the first volumes quite efficiently eventhough I never felt very comfortable. When I arrived at the crux sequence, I was still fresh but when I had to match the crux volume in undercling, I didn’t put enough effort or had enough power to hold it and fell. I was a bit disappointed I couldn’t fight more in the route. In the end, when you look at the results, 21 climbers fell between the hold 25 and 29+… Because of count back, I finished 20th here with a feeling of « I can do better ». Congratulations to Nicolas for his first semi-final, finishing 21st and of course to Anak Verhoeven for a 2nd position and a great climbing through the whole competition !
After Villars, we decided to go outdoors for some rock climbing in Rawyl ! It was my first time on Swiss rocks and we had a great time ! Being there with belgian friends, surrounded by beautiful mountains and climbing on pure rock was just perfect to recharge the batteries for Briançon . We climbed some classic routes and I also gave a try to « La Cabane au Canada », the popular 9a of the crag. After two tries, I felt I could do the route pretty fast but I will come back later for this one ! Big congratz to Sebastien Berthe for climbing his project during this little trip and climbing his first 9a !
After two days of rest after Rawyl, it was time for yet another World Cup and this time in Briançon ! This competition is a classic one since already a few years and usually has a different style than the other world cups because it has a more slightly overhanging wall. But this year they decided to change it and we had a much steeper wall !
The conditions for the qualifications were tough ! I had to climb 7th and as the qualifications started at 8am, that meant waking up at 5:45am ! Unfortunately, there was some heavy rain and even storm… The wall got wet and the start of the competitions was delayed… I felt it was hard to focus on the warm-up as we didn’t really know how much time it would take to dry the wall… In the end we started at 9am and the first route seemed to be a rather easy one that you almost had to top to be qualified. I fell at the last move very disappointed as I knew I had to top and didn’t feel warm enough… But I forgot about it and focused on the second one that was much harder ! I passed through the crux move of the second route but fell right after completely pumped.
Because of my first route, I finished 27th, first out of the qualifications ! I guess I was a bit unlucky here but I know I could have climbed better on both routes and this just made my motivation rise for the rest of the season !
Conclusion of the 3 world cups : some weeks ago I wasn’t even sure I would participate as I had my elbows injury in May and then law exams in June ! But thanks to my great staff and trainer I could train hard again and I was pleased I could participate at the start of the season ! I knew I had a lack in my preparation but I was just psyched to compete !
I’m confident for the rest of the season because with some good preparation and the same spirit, I know I can get a great shape !
So my motivation is high and I’m ready for a month of training before the next competition in Imst end of August !
Now we’re off to Switzerland for some training in the gyms !
Stay tuned !